Niagara Riesling Diary: Day 2 – No Word Other Than “Revolution” Will do

Mercredi, Décembre 3

Stuart Pigott 

There was a total contrast of approach to creating something revolutionary at Chateau des Charmes  in St. David’s where Paul Bosc Snr. (right in the photo), his son Paul-André  (left) and winemaker Amelie Boury (centre)  have pursued the arduous process of breeding new grape varieties ideally suited to this region with its “Siberian” winters and “Algerian” summers (the family originates from Algeria). Since Paul Snr began this process 18 (!) years ago he’s run through perhaps 20,000 combinations of vine genetics in the search of a new one that will at least match the most successful vinifera varieties grown here and have a distinctive personality. “146″ may be an unromantic name for a variety – it is only temporary – but this cross of Gewürztraminer (mother) and Riesling (father) combines the baroque aromas of the former with the racy acidity of the latter to give something that is completely new and exciting either as a dry wine or one with some sweetness. In a few years, under a new and much more attractive name, the first experimental wine will hit the market. My hunch is that the Boscs will vilify it in a similar style to their impressive dry ‘Old Vine’ Riesling (great value at just under $15 here) Who knows what the reaction will be? I was certainly amazed by the micro-vinifications I tasted and can’t wait for the revolutionary moment when the first commercial product hits the market!

To read the entire report from Stuart's recent visit to Niagara click here.

Paul Jr., Amélie and Paul Sr. by Stuart Pigott